The Lincoln Versailles (pronounced versigh) 9-inch, disc brake rearends came as standard equipment on the '77-80 models, and a factory installed option on the '75-80 Granada and Monarch. They used a .950-inch-thick (nominal) rotor 10.675 inches in diameter, and a single piston caliper with a 2 1/8 inch piston diameter. In addition, the parking brake is incorporated internally in the caliper, and actuated by a standard cable arrangement attached to an external actuating lever. These brake systems work very well when properly installed and maintained and, when used with a compatible front system, make a very worthy addition to your rod.

Before you run out and buy one of these rearends, you should be aware of the pitfalls of ownership. First and foremost, stay away from all but a complete rear end - if it's missing rotors and calipers, take a hike. Brand-name, top-of-the-line American made rotors will cost you (depending on who you know) between $60 and $90 each (stay away from the rest). By the way, there's a left and a right rotor; make sure you get one of each (check the curvature of the cooling fins). Rebuilt calipers run $60-$80 if you have cores. No cores? Add $150 a pair. If the parking brake actuating levers are missing, you're in trouble, Ford no longer makes them, and they are essential for brake operation! If the rearend is complete and looks like it can be saved, you might want to check the thickness of the rotors to see if they are usable before you make an offer. Notice I said "offer," because these rears are never worth what people think they are. Minimum rotor thickness is .895-inch, and is usually cast into the rotor someplace in case you forget.

Check that one side of the rotor isn't significantly thinner than the other side. In addition to rotor thickness, check for missing or broken Studs and/or T-bolts that hold the axle in. These T-bolts are unique to this rearend only, and are no longer available from Ford. If it has a broken stud, you're in trouble. They are still available in the after market (EIS D7114) and, if you're lucky enough to find one, you'll have to remove the axle bearing to install it! Seems that Ford neglected to leave enough room between the axle retainer/caliper mount and the axle flange to install the new stud, so you have to remove the retainer to do it (which requires trashing the axle bearing because there's no way to press it off!). Bad enough on its own, but the bearings run about $50 each. Don't think the light was on that day - more on this later!

Now for the really bad news! These rears all come with desert gears! Most have 2.50 or 2.75:1 gears (great for Bonneville, the pits for the street). Fortunately, a standard, 9-inch center section (28-spline) will fit. Unfortunately, that's the only interchangeable component with other 9-inch rears. Even the housing and axles are different! Don't let that huge constant velocity joint on the front of the pinion worry you (if it's still there) - we'll take care of that later. But if the rearend's all there and usable, make your best deal and don't say I didn't warn you!

Now that you've got a complete rearend assembly (or you ignored my advice and bought a partial one), the first thing we need to do is disassemble the thing and check it out. A word of caution before we start: Don't throw anything away until you're done with the car! You never know what you may need down the road.

Start by removing the parking brake cables and brackets (if they are still there). You'll probably want to replace these with a better looking setup, but keep them anyway. Remove the brake hose bolts and hoses (don't lose the hose bolts or washers). Remove the caliper by removing the Allen bolt at the bottom of the caliper mounting cradle, then remove the "V" block and tensioning spring. You'll have to tap them out with a hammer and punch. Pull the caliper off the bracket and set it aside. Note how the inner pad is held in place by the anti-rattle clip. Next, slide the rotor off the axle - remember, there's a right and a left side. They are usually marked on the inside face next to the stud holes, but check and see anyway.

Remove the dust shield and set it aside. You may or may not want to reuse these. Now, remove the caliper mounting cradles by removing the two mounting bolts. Keep them; they are special. To remove the axle, you'll need a socket and an extension to go through the hole in the axle flange. Remove the four nuts and T-bolts - remember, these are like gold! Remove the axle with a puller, if need be. Don't bang on the retainer with a hammer to remove the axle, though - it's cast iron and will break! Now, do the other side the same way. Remove the center section if you like, and save the center brake hose (even if it's been cut). Also save the housing vent bolt that holds it on. Pull the old axle seals out of the housing, write the numbers down, and put them aside.

Now, you've probably already noticed that the axles and their retainers are completely different from those of any other Ford rear that you've ever seen. The axle flange has a 5 5/8 inch diameter to allow the rotor to fit over it so, if you are doing after market axles, keep that in mind. The other difference is the axle retainer. Aside from being obviously different than the stamped steel type used on other Ford rears, it also incorporates an outer grease seal for the axle bearing. Both inner and outer seals are still available at the local parts store (Federal Mogul 51098 inner, and 3794 outer). You'll have to remove the axle bearings to replace the outer seal. Before you do that, write down the numbers on the bearing because there are two different ones, depending on the year of the rearend. Whatever you do, don't even think about pressing the axle bearings off using the axle retainers! That would be the dumbest thing you've done since buying the rearend. The axle retainers are cast; they'll break very easily, and Ford doesn't make them anymore. Before you remove the bearings, note which way they go on so you put the new ones on the same way. Remove them by wrapping them in a bunch of rags and break the outer race with a hammer (don't forget your safety glasses). Remove the inner race and lock ring by splitting them with a good cold chisel, or put a small slice in them with a cut-off tool and then use the chisel. Make sure you don't cut into or ding the axle while you're doing it.

If you choose to take the axles to your local parts store or machine shop, stand there and watch them do it. Remember - they know even less about this than you do! Remove the retainer and the outer seal (noting the direction of the seal so you install the new one the same way). Make sure you mark both the axle and the retainer. Both retainers are the same, but you might want to put the same one back on the same side to prevent a possible problem later on.

Next, remove the old axle seals from the ends of the axle housing tubes (note which way they went in). Now is the time to install or replace the wheel studs. If you feel that your bearings don't need replacement, make sure you have good outer grease seals so you don't have problems down the road. If the seals were leaking, you'll notice grease leaking out of the weep hole on the outside of the axle retainer, just under the bearing. This is your call, but it's easier to do it now rather than later (on the side of the road)! As for that constant velocity joint (or remains of), you can do a couple of things. If only the flange on the pinion is still there, you can replace it with a standard, 9-inch Ford yoke. If the entire joint is still there, save some money by using some of its parts. Unbolt it from the pinion flange (keep all the parts), and take it to your work bench. Using standard U-joint removal technology (whatever that is!), separate the flange and rear U-joint from the front half. Take the flange and rear U-joint assembly to the local drive shaft man and have him make you a shaft that will mate to it. You can then simply bolt this back onto the existing pinion flange. Check to see that whatever he uses for a shaft yoke gives you enough angular movement so the joint doesn't bind during suspension travel. If you're lucky, your existing shaft may hook right up to it! If die rotors are within limits, have them turned; if not, get new ones. Remove the parking brake actuating levers (keep the bolts) from the calipers along with the brake, and go get a pair of rebuilds. Unless you are very familiar with these calipers, or ever listen to good advice, don't try rebuilding them yourself (they'll make you crazy in no time flat). While you're at it, you'll need set of brake pads, inner and outer grease seals, and a pair of axle bearings. Don't forget a center section gasket and some sealer. Now, decide what you're gonna run for gears and go see the rearend man. Clean and paint everything, and get ready for re-assembling (don't paint the end of the axle flange or the inside mounting surface of the rotor).

Now that you've painted, plated, powder coated (or whatever) all your parts, it's time to reassemble everything. First off, install whatever you are using for a center section. Use a new gasket, and don't forget the copper O-rings behind the nuts!

Next we have to assemble the axles. Install the new outer grease seal in the axle retainer (making sure you have the correct retainer, and that you install the seal the same way the old one came out). Slide the retainer onto the axle, followed by the new bearing (you'll need access to a hydraulic press to press it all the way on). Press the lock ring on after the bearing. Now, assemble the other side the same way, and set the axles aside for the time being.

Next, make sure that the axle housing tube ends are clean, and install the new seals in the ends. Also make sure they're installed the same way the old ones were. Install the axles in the housing using a small amount of sealer on the housing end flange, where it meets the axle retainer. Making sure that the axle retainer is positioned so it mounts the caliper to the rear of the housing, slide the retainer over the T-bolts, and install the axle retaining nuts. Now, install the caliper mounting cradles onto the axle retainers, using the stock Ford bolts you took off (remember to coat them with Loctite, just like the Ford man did when he put it together at the factory). Do not skip the Loctite - you'll be sorry! Remember, there is a right and a left cradle (the caliper lock bolt hole is on the bottom).

Before we install the rotors and calipers, we have to preset the caliper piston position, or you'll never get rear brakes. If you haven't already done so, install the parking brake actuating levers on the calipers. Remember, there's a right and a left arm, and they should point downward when correctly mounted. Secure them with the nuts you originally took off. Take the rotor for the side you are working on and mount it in your bench vise, using a rag to protect the braking surface. Take the correct caliper (remember left and right) and remove the pads if they've already been installed. Looking at the end of the piston, you will see two holes (1 inch on center) in the surface of the piston. These holes are used to turn the piston (its threaded) in or out to preset the pad running clearance. Although they make a special tool for this, you can either make one yourself out of a piece of flat stock with a pair of pins welded in, or use a pair of needle nose pliers. The pliers don't usually work very well if the pistons are really tight. Make the tool if you can. Note that the pistons in both calipers have a right-hand thread.

Before you start the adjustment procedure check the backside of your inner pad to see if it has a small pin sticking out of the steel back. These are anti-rotation pins and, if they are there, they must line up with one of the holes in the piston when you are done (so you can only adjust in half turn increments). If you don't have them, don't worry about them. Using a large C-clamp and a socket (see photo), make sure the piston is fully retracted into the housing. They usually come that way from the rebuilders, but check it anyway. Don't get crazy here - light pressure on the clamp is all you need. Now, we're ready to adjust!

Install both pads in the caliper, and slide the caliper over the rotor and into its running position. Make sure the parking brake actuator is fully retracted against its stop, and press the outer pad up against the rotor's braking surface. By looking through the opening in the top of the caliper, you can see how much running clearance there is between the inner pad and the rotor. Remove the caliper and then the pads. Unscrew the piston out of the caliper half a turn, and repeat the process. This will give you a feel for how much clearance is taken up per half turn of the piston. Repeat the adjustment procedure until you can barely slide the caliper over the rotor with the pads installed. Don't make it too tight or the brakes will drag and heat up (a piece of paper on one side makes a good gauge).

When you feel that you have the correct adjustment, put the caliper on the rotor, and rotate the parking brake lever until the pads clamp tightly against the rotor. This should take no more than 15-20 degrees of arm rotation. You want to keep this movement to a bare minimum, so re-adjust if necessary. This procedure is extremely critical to correct brake operation so take your time and do it right! Failure to correctly preset the caliper pistons will result in your never getting rear brakes no matter how much fluid you pump through the system!

Adjust the other caliper the same way, using the rotor that goes with it. If you cut both rotors and they are not the same thickness, your adjustment will be off on the second caliper (if you use the first rotor to adjust it). When both calipers are adjusted, install the rotors on the correct axle and put a couple of lug nuts on to hold them in place. Make sure the axle flange and the backside of the rotor are clean before you mount them; proper alignment with the caliper is critical. Put a little Lubriplate (or its equivalent) on the upper and lower surfaces of the caliper mounting cradle where the caliper bears against it, and install the caliper onto the mount. Don't forget the inner pad anti-rattle clip. Install the tensioning spring into the "V" block that locks the caliper to the mount, "Lubriplate" it, and slide the assembly into position at the bottom of the mount (the same way you took it apart). Align the hole for the lock bolt and install it; do the same on the other side. Now, recheck parking brake lever travel.

A further note on the parking brake: You must hook it up, make it work, and use it on a regular basis! Actuation of the parking brake is essential to maintain proper pad clearance adjustment, and here's why. Under normal caliper operation, the piston dust boot tends to retract the piston back into the caliper housing every time you release the brakes. If you don't use the parking brake as the pads wear, more and more brake fluid is required from the master cylinder to make the piston travel far enough to get the pads back out onto the rotor. Even though the caliper slides inboard on its mounting bracket to compensate for outer pad wear, sooner or later, you can no longer stroke the master cylinder far enough to get the inner pad back out onto the rotor - resulting in no rear brakes.

Each time you use the parking brake, the self adjuster in the caliper allows the piston to retract only enough to provide for running clearance, therefore requiring only minimal amounts of brake fluid to operate, preventing the loss of the rear brakes. So as you can readily see, failure to make it work and use it on a regular basis will result in eventual loss of the rear brakes! If you notice the brake pedal getting lower and lower over a period of time, it's because you are not adjusting for pad wear, because you're not using the parking brake! So make it work and use it!

When hooking up the parking brake, you cannot hook it directly to your handle or foot pedal because you won't get enough tension in the cables to make it work correctly. You'll need a force multiplier under the car to increase the force to the required level. All you'll need is a piece of flat stock about 6-inches long, with a few holes in it (see illustration).

Pivot one end on the chassis in the area where the two cables come together. Attach the cable/rod coming from your handle/pedal to the other end. Attach the two rear cables together, then to whichever one of the center holes works best.

Note that the two rear cables are attached independently so that if one needs to pull slightly farther than the other, it can do so without being stopped by the other. See the guys at Lokar - they have the right stuff.

As for brake hoses, you probably won't want to use the stock Ford ones - they are ugly and very expensive (all three hoses will run you over a hundred bucks!). Use a pair of good after market rubber hoses of your choice or a pair of braided stainless lines if you like. Note that the factory type hose had a locating pin that fits into a hole in the caliper next to where the hose attaches. This pin kept the hose from twisting during suspension travel. Whatever you decide to do for hoses, make sure that however they are mounted (top and bottom), they do not twist the hose bolt during suspension travel - you don't want to loosen the hose bolt. You can also anchor the other end of your hose to the housing if you like (weld a tab on), and use a short length of steel brake tube over to the stock center hose.

The caliper hose bolt is threaded 7/16-20. Make sure that whatever you use for a hose bolt is not long enough to bottom out on the caliper piston - check this carefully. Don't forget the copper washers on both sides of the banjo. If you plan on using a straight adapter for your braided hose, make sure you use a copper sealing washer where it attaches to the caliper. Also make sure the hose isn't going to be bent up and down at the caliper during suspension travel. Take extra care with the hoses of choice - if you break one, things get real interesting real fast! Also, don't forget to install a housing vent where the original one went if you don't use a stock center hose. Now, fill the system with clean fluid and bleed the brakes as you would any other brake system (I still prefer the pump the pedal and open the bleeder method). Make sure that when you attach the parking brake cables, the parking brake levers are held in the fully retracted position by the cable return spring when the parking brake is released. This is very important for proper operation of the self adjusting mechanism. Oh yeah, don't forget the gear oil.

Well, there you have it: one very nicely done Lincoln Versailles rearend. Admittedly, not for the fainthearted, but I'm sure you'll find it well worth the effort and expense. As the man said, "happy motoring" and keep using that parking brake!